WARNING! WARNING! WARNING!

THE FOLLOWING FILE IS NOT TERMINATED BUT SOON WILL BE DONE
ASAP IN HYPERTEXT AND WITH PIX WHEN NEED BE SO PLEASE BARE
WITH ME TILL  THEN,  MUCH  INFORMATION CAN BE  USED
MEANWHILE  FOR  YOUR ENJOYEMENT OR PLEASURE. MEANWHILE IF
YOU HAVE ANY TIPS FOR ME SEND THEM UP BY E-MAIL TO:
richard@io.org


WINTER SHOES NOTE:

For  winter, fall and spring season your shoes or boots MUST
be 1/2 to 1 point bigger in size.

So as to fit well without being tight your extra wool sock &
should also fit well the extra felt sole or newspaper soles
even hay sole that you could put in.

One  pair  of big wool sock is not as good as 2 small ones,
the  air  insulates a lot better with 2 pairs  but requires
more space.

If  your  shoes are tight forget about long walk  in winter
etc.,  you will freeze. In a true way it is better one  size
too big than too small.

REMEMBER:  ONCE YOUR FEET ARE WARMED UP WE FEEL WARMER ALL OVER.

NOTHING IS WARMER THAN 2 PAIRS OF SOCKS.

Wool is  best of all.)

REMEMBER  again,  in order not to avoid  freezing  one MUST
cover his head, even cover your forehead.

YOU LOOSE 1/3 HEAT BY HEAD UNCOVERED. SO COVER YOUR ASS & HEAD!

BOOTS INFORMATION: #1

In  the  army  after the gun, comes the boots,  as  next in
importance  offering the most satisfaction or  create worst
problems.

THE MOST IMPORTANT FEATURE in the selection is PROPER FIT:

When  the boot is placed on the foot with 2 pairs of socks,
it MUST NOT be the LEAST BIT TIGHT.

BOOTS INFORMATION #2:

In  the  army  after the gun, comes the boots,  as  next in
importance  offering the most satisfaction or  create worst
problems.

Since  the majority of hunters walks at least 5 miles a day
or  1,750  steps per mile or 8,500 steps or  even more  the
reasons to be well shoed.

This is why it is so important to check carefully any sewing
to see that it is done properly so as not to chaff the foot.
A  boot too big will pierce your socks in a few days &  give
you blisters.

Too  small  a boot will give you cold feet even frostbite &
compress nails in the skin that will harm you seriously. It
is for all those reasons and more, CAPITAL & ESSENTIAL to
choose well your pair of boots.

BOOTS ARMY SECRET = A1 SOLE MOULD:

Should you be able to have them handmade, the USA army tells
you how to go about getting a proper sole mould: Put 2 pairs
of wool sock thick ones and holding a weight of 40 lbs lean
on one foot only before writing down the size of the foot.

One  MUST  take in consideration than while walking  on one
foot we impose an excess weight on the other foot. One
could  think that handmade boots made for  2  pairs of socks
will be too big in summer, Wrong! The heat will make your
feet expand to fill the difference.

You  also will avoid bargains boots sales, in good shoes or
boots  you  only get what you pay for, cheap price  = cheap
boots and much troubles even death.

Here  are  the qualities that are ESSENTIALS that  one MUST
check  to  discover after a careful exam of the outside  and
inside of the boot.

Straight sewing without flaws and sufficiently far from the
edge of the leather is #2 to check.

A  sewing  that is not perfect will unravel easily and will
let water seep in and will rot the leather. If the sewing is
too near the edge of the leather it will rip easy.

Itneeds   a  supple,  soft  leather,  whatever  thickness
especially the part covering the Achilles heel but also for
the #soufflet#.

Usually a bad boot will hurt the Achilles heal but also the
#souflet# too rigid will hurt the big toe extension muscle.

Also  the #souflet MUST be sewn a la tige jusqu'en  haut de
celle-ci#. If not the boot will seep water by the front.

Inside the boot #des entures amenuises# without rough edges
even  covered  of  fine #leatherette#  particularly on  the
sewing  connecting  #la  tige au coup  de  pied# Such  a
precaution will protect your socks and your ankles.

The  bottom  of the boot MUST also be well made.  To check,
remove  the false sole and if the next sole is irregular  to
the  touch, with bumps even worst rivets or nails coming out
or in, then scrap it.

A  good  boot  MUST  also  have a well  constructed footing
especially  at  the Achilles heal level. #le coup de  pied#
MUST not be too highly elevated.

Also to check the outside sole if flexible enough; yet thick
enough to supply an adequate insulation. Otherwise the  boot
will be too hot in summer and too cold in winter.

If you feel small medium pebble, then it's too thin, beware.

It also MUST be non skid type, since the worst kind of boots
in bushes is the smooth sole. Which would need to put rivets
in order to compensate but rivets in winter will freeze your
boots.

A boot should NEVER be more than 12 inches high. Perronally
Iprefer 10 in. The 14 and 16 in. will hurt your lower calf.
So you should avoid them.

Lightness is another ESSENTIAL quality for any good boot.

The  Beans Cie makes one that is 1/2 lb than most other Cie.
boot.  And  after 10,000 steps you have saved lifting  over
1,500  lbs. thus saving energy and strength. It's well worth
considering.

In  principle a good pair of boots is waterproof in reality
it is not so except rubber boots, but to help them along you
MUST waterproof your boots with grease.

HIKING BOOTS:

BOOTS  ARE  ONE OF THE 3 MOST IMPORTANT ITEMS IN BACKPACKING
EQUIPMENT.

And  it does not pay to economize when buying them. We talk
here of hiking boots.

When  you  hit the wood, these boots will support the extra
weight  of  your  backpack, trying to go in  the bush  with
running shoes is for amateur who love problems, so we  don't
worry here of masochist. May they: RIP.

THE MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR TO CONSIDER IN A BOOT IS:

Whether it is strong enough to support your own weight plus
the pack you will carry. 35/45 Lb max.

So  the more weight you place on your feet the more rigid a
shoe you need to support that weight.

THE RECOMMENDED LIMIT TO CARRY IS 25% OF BODY WEIGHT:

As  a rule of thumb if with your pack on your back you can
feel  the  rocks  through the soles as  you  move  over the
terrain, then the shoe is not suitable for your weight.

You  have  2 choices; buy a heavier kind of shoe  or reduce
your load.

Think  that  going for the bush is not just street walking,
you really will feel the difference with bad shoes.

The first thing to check is the sole and you really need the
Vibram-lugged sole for any serious backpacking.

This type of sole will take you over the easiest or roughest
trail with good support and will wear for many years.

Look for a layer of leather just above the sole. You  don't  want
a lightweight boot that is  excellent for ladies but not for man.
(No macho, nor macha here.)

For a man who is normally heavier and carries more weight on
his  pack,  a  boot MUST have at least 2 layers  of leather
support between the sole and the upper section.

If  you are a heavy person select the biggest and heaviest
boots  on  the rack. It will have several layers of leather
laminated together, then sewn as well as glued to the Vibram
sole  on  the bottom. This is the normal method of attaching
the Vibram type lugged sole to better hiking boots.

In  the  maximum boot the heel, midsection and  toe  of the
Vibram  sole  are  sewn into the support leather  for added
strength. This is the ultimate in the backpacker boot.

Speciality  boots for rock climber have also a  steel shank
running  the  entire  length to give the  rock climber  the
maximum supports he needs from toe to heel. However it is
uncomfortable for backpacking since they will not bend at
all. Stick to your guns.

Another  factor to check is the lacing method of  the boot.
Many  have  the standard eyelet into the leather upper  and
this method is adequate in lighter boots but as you move  in
heavier  styles  they will usually have a "D" ring  to  the
leather upper. Some also incorporate a speed lacing of 2  or
3hooks on the upper section.

The  upper section of the boot is also important.  You MUST
insist that the upper section of the boot covering your foot
&  aiding  supporting the ankle, be made of full grain  cow-
hide  and made of one piece in the better boots with no seam
except at the heel.

NO split cowhide since it will stretch with use and you have
no more adjustment.

They do cost less but not worth the saving. Lightweight and
medium  one  have no screws nor sewing to attach the Vibram
sole to the upper of the boot as the heavier one does.

In  selecting be certain the rivets that hold the "D" rings
on  the lacing system do not have the bare rivet against the
sock or open on the inside of the boot which would become  a
torture in time.

A good boot will also have a #gusset# of light leather that
comes up about halfway on the foot for a dust & dirt barrier
and keeps out water when fording streams.

The  tongue will be padded and extend above the top  of the
boot. Many of the boots today have what is called a ski flap
that  crosses over each side and closes the top of the  boot
to dirt and dust. Around the ankle the boot MUST also have a
Stretch scree guard.

This  is  a section of foam rubber covered with soft leather
such as goatskin that prevents scree (small rocks), dust and
dirt  from getting on the ankles and into the boot. It  also
protects  the Achilles tendon at the
back of the  foot  from rock abrasion.

The  ideal hiking boot for the serious backpacking nuts MUST
include  all  the above statements. (No paid advertising  by
Vibram.)  One  final item to ask: woven nylon  laces,  since
leather rots.

SOCKS  2 PAIRS = 3 REASONS:

ALWAYS wear 2 pair of socks, when trying on a pair of boots
since  when  you are in the field you will wear at least  2
pairs.

The first pair cushions the foot while the heavier pair over
them  absorbs some of the moisture of the foot and the  feet
remain dry even in damp weather.

Keep sock dry & clean to avoid chaffing, blisters, frostbite
and other niceties alike.

Another reason for wearing 2 pairs of socks is that the foot
can  move between the 2 pairs. The lighter pair staying with
the foot while the heavier pair moves with the boot allowing
the socks to absorb any sliding that might occur.

If  the  foot slides in the boot it can cause rather painful
blister.  3rd  reason  =  warmer. American  made boot  will
normally fit better (cm/inches).

COLD FEET & SOCKS:

Put  newspaper as added sole, it does work. Wool is best by
far all year around!

Back  to spock OOPS socks; you MUST wear 2 pair OK, but why
else; the outer wool socks should be long & reach almost  to
the  knee. With these you can pull them up to keep the lower
leg warm or roll them down  as it warms up.

It  is very important to keep your feet warm and dry because
if  they  are  cold, heat from the rest  of  the body  will
transfer  to  your  feet to warm them and the overall  body
temperature will drop, making you feel cold all over.

NOTE: ONCE YOUR FEET ARE WARMED UP WE FEEL WARMER ALL OVER.

I  may shock some experts but to our knowledge there is only
one  kind  of socks in summer as for winter, for hunting  or
fishing  and it is wool socks and the thicker they  are  the
best it is.

Some  will protest that in summer they are too much too hot
but  science  proved that a good wool sock  will ALWAYS  be
cooler than a thin cotton one.

If it is really hot your feet badly insulated in a thin sock
will  literally cook in a shoe under hot baking sun, whereas
they  will  be comfortable in a thicker sock which insulates
them better.

This  is  a principle adopted by all world armies for their
soldiers so they know best in that foot soldier field.

One needs at least 2 pairs for summer too, as to be able to
change daily and to dry well from water or perspiration.

For all other seasons it is best to have at least a total of
4  pairs  since  one  needs 2 pairs at  the  time  to fight
successfully  against the coldness of the earth  or covered
with snow.

THE MOST IMPORTANT FEATURE in the selection is PROPER FIT:

When  the boot is placed on the foot with 2 pairs of socks,
it MUST not be the least bit tight.

The  best method to check the fit is to BANG the toe of the
boot up against something solid (not the salesman leg, maybe
your  income tax agent)? then attempt to place a finger down
the back of the boot.

If  you  can not place your index down the back of the boot
between  the heel and the boot back, the boot is too small,
then move one size up ex: 9D/9EE.

Once you have found a boot that allows you to place a finger
behind the heel, bang the heel on the floor sliding the heel
to the back of the boot.

Now  take  up the slack in the lacing, starting at the toe,
allowing  the salesman to take some slack and hand you  the
laces  for  you to retain the tension as he pulls them  even
tighter.

Once properly laced wear them around the store for 5 min. or
more.  Naturally they will be stiff and cold at  first, but
will warm up.

Once  they  have loosened up you will be able to adjust the
lacing more if desired. At this point you should be able  to
move the foot around in the boot without too much looseness.

The  toe MUST not come in contact with the boxed tip of the
boot and the heel should be firm in the boot.

Better  boots  will  have  a padded leather-covered section
around the ankle to protect the ankle, as well as provide  a
better  fit. When you are properly fitted the boot  will  be
snug on the foot without being tight. (NEVER!)

Your  new boots may look awkward, clumsy and feel very heavy
at first, however you will soon become accustomed to walking
in them.

The weight will not be noticed after a while, you will begin
to  walk with somewhat rolling gait, because soles of hiking
boots do not bend as readily as normal street shoes.

In selecting boots REMEMBER that you are not buying a modish
shoe for street wear but for rug country.

A  good  hiking boot should absorb most of the shock of the
trail,  leaving you free to concentrate on the pleasure  of
the trip.

After  buying your hiking boots you should break them in by
wearing them around the house for a while before taking off
on a back country trip.

Often the scree guard will cause a soreness around the ankle
before  the  boot is broken in, especially with individuals
inexperienced in wearing a boot this heavy.

There are 2 methods to reduce this soreness.

The  easiest is to lace the boot up to the last 2 holes and
tie  it  there, leaving these last 2 holes free. This allows
the foot more freedom as you break in the new boot.

A second method of curing the scree rubbing is to  place a
section of moleskin on the ankle at the  chafed area. This
is only a temporary cure, but will work until the leather of
the boot has softened & works to your foot.

NEVER EVER take a new pair of boots on a long trail hike. It
has  been  done but it normally results in some mighty sore
feet.

So  break them in before take off. These boots should ALWAYS
be broken in gradually around the house before hand.

To  be  certain about your footgear, begin with short jaunts
then  increase it until you feel certain you are capable  of
going longer distance.

BOOT CARE:

The  care  and time selecting a good high boot is  lost, if
once  you  bought them you neglect to care for them properly
after use.

One  of the first things you MUST do to a new pair of boots
is to treat them with a leather conditioner or waterproofing
material.  Ask  the  salesman what type  is best  for  that
particular leather.

If  the  boot  has  a  smooth leather  surface,a  standard
conditioner such as a boot oil(mink oil) (#huile de pied de
boeuf#) (Snow seal) can be used.

If  the  boot has a rough leather outer surface, it MUST be
brushed  with a soft wire brush to remove the dirt and dust
then treated with a silicone dressing.

The conditioner MUST be worked into the seams and around the
welt  of  the  boot,  but  should  not  be  applied to  the
composition of the sole.

If  oil  is used, it helps to warm the boot before applying
the  oil.  After applying the oil, allow it to dry overnight
then wipe off the excess.

DRYING BOOTS by 3 METHODS:

When  wet  NEVER dry a boot over a hot fire or  radiator or
other high heat source.

This type of heat will dry out and shrink the leather in the
uppers  and in the leather welt, shortening the life of the boot.

Continued  use  of  this  method of drying  will  cause
the leather to become brittle and crack beyond salvation.

The  recommended method of drying wet boots is to place
them in  a well-circulated area away from excessive
heat with the top of the boot hanging down.

This  allows  the warm air not heat to enter  the  boot
and since  warm air rises it will move to the toe of
the boot, drying  all  parts  gradually, when  almost
dry, set  them upright to finish drying.

When  completely dried apply leather conditioner to
prevent them from cracking.

If they are taken care immediately & dried properly,
even if they  are thoroughly soaked they are not going
to be harmed. Use common sense not old wives tales.

METHOD #2:

If  at home pack them up with newspaper that will
absorb 90% of  the  water during the night, then finish
the drying  as above  or even wear them on; your feet
heat will finish  the job.

METHOD #3:

Is  to  use  warm sand, or small pebbles, not too hot,
fill your  boots  with them, wait 1/2 hour then, start
anew  for another 1/2 hour.

The  heat of the sand will dry them. But we repeat  not
too hot. You don't want to burn or crack the leather by
too much heat.

A  HINT that is not thought of often is placing boots
inside your  shelter  or  at the bottom of your
sleeping bag  when camping.

This  keeps them out of the damp night air-warm and dry
for use  the nest day. A good well cared of High Boots
will last many years.

AIR DRYING BOOTS 2 METHODS:

Most  people don't know how to do so, leaving boots on
stove or oven at 400 degrees, close to camp fire etc.

Since water comes down then hang your boots sole facing
the sky  so  that  water comes out and the warm air
that climbs will  get in the boot and dry it. To prop
the boot up  just stick it on a pole, broom, stick etc.

If  they  are soaked or damp & you happen to have
newspaper then  make  balls of it and stuff tight the
boot,  it  will prevent curling up and will dry most of
the water out during one night.

Boots are one of the most important pieces of equipment
that you  will  buy  and  a  little extra  money  and
effort  in selection will ALWAYS pay off on the trail
where it counts.

FELT BOOTS:  (I FELT LIKE IT!)

2  main types. The first one is a moccasin or sock about
3/4 in thick without opening nor eyes at the front.

A  heavy rubber is put over it to complete a fit not
really gracious to say the least but practical and
comfortable.

There  is also a lighter version. It is a felt boot
with a rubber  heel. #l'empeigne et le coup de pied# are
generally covered with #leatherette#, and a rubber
especially made for this outfit complete the boot.

It  is  a  truly remarkable shoe by great cold on  a
frozen ground or covered of dry snow.

Extremely  light,  really  hot, cheap  to  buy  &
admirably noiseless  for  fine  hunting tactics. Once
the rubber  is removed, it also makes a great indoor shoe.

Yet  in wet snow they get wet in a hurry, so you just
shove them  in  a big rubber boot that zip at the front,
but  you need  at  least  a  size  2  to 3  point
bigger to  do  so comfortably.

RUBBER BOOTS:

There  is  also the waist up type of rubber boots, which
is very  heavy  and you sweat like a pig in it, better
use  as many  a fisherman has discovered the modified
version  which has  rubber feet with waterproof tarp
trousers, much lighter and nearly as strong and much
less hot to go around.

Especially  good  if  you do a lot of  fishing  in
streams, rivers etc. which often get damn cold even
freezing nuts.

However  it is ESSENTIAL to add non skid soles to  it.
Some Cie don't, but it is easy to correct this problem.

Just  take  a correct size of strong tarp really
thickat least  1/4 in. or use a piece of rug which you
glue  to the sole, any good shoemaker will do the job
for less than a fin

With  such  boots you will walk safely on the most
slippery rock without problem.

WHAT TYPE OF BOOTS TO BUY?:

Well, it depends of the use you make.

A  forest  engineer  would need several  types  composed
as follow,  a  canoe boot made of leather with rubber
sole,  a leather boot with rivets for summer walk.

A Maine USA boot type for the end of hunting & snowshoes
and a  pant rubber tarp trouser type for fishing as well
as  his motocross type of boots.

If you can't afford them all, then the best overall
would be the  one   call by the woodsmen; Boot of Maine
USA that has the foot in rubber and the stem in leather
often just called "rubbers".

BREAKING IN AND GREASE:
(Not baking in grease!)

You  really MUST break in your boots before going into a
big expedition so as to MAKE SURE that they will foot
the bill and correct the problem or buy a new pair.

Before  wearing them you MUST oil them first  to  make
them waterproof.

And  consequently you will need more grease if there is
wet snow. To proceed you warm up the boot and also the oil.

Don't  put  oil  on frozen leather it wont work  but
before oiling  them  you MUST cover the sewing with many
coats  of lacquer using toothbrush or brush.

Then once dry, oil away using a rag or hands to rub
strongly the  oil  in  the leather, then let it dry in
a well-aired place for several weeks. Then you put on
the heavy grease.

OIL AND GREASE RECIPE:

1) 8 oz of Lanolin + 8 oz of paraffin or   best bee wax.
2) 12  oz beef or mutton fat  + 4 oz. Beaver or  cod oil.

3) 1/3 beef or mutton fat + 1/2 #huile de  pied de boeuf#.

4)1/2 paraffin or bee wax + 1/2 # huile de pied de boeuf#
/ Mix well those ingredients by heating them on low heat.

SHOES AND MESH INSOLES:

A  new type of insoles has been created for soldiers and
can be  bought into any good camping stores. They are
well worth the  extra  effort to look into and to buy if
you have  the chance.

One  can order them for now at World Famous Sales of
Canada Inc. Willowdale Ontario M2H 2S6 and they cost
about $4.00  a pair.

They were used by soldiers during the Korean and Vietnam
war to  keep their feet warmer and drier and armies
today still continue to use these mesh soles.

The mesh insoles create an airspace between the foot and
the footwear enabling air to circulate around the foot.

This  characteristic keeps the foot warm &  dry  in
winter, cool and dry in the summer.Its  two  layers  of
fine  plastic screening  are  crinkled between three
layers of smooth screening.

All  layers  are then cemented together along the  edges
to create a thermal mesh insole suitable for most
footwear from ski-boots to rubber boots to shoe pack
with lines.

They  are also completely washable with warm water and
soap. Give  it  a shot; after all soldiers know more
about walking then anyone else.

SANDALS HOME MADE:

Very  easy  to  do. First draw on a piece of cardboard
your foot print adding about 1 cm. all around it.

Next  cut into a piece of leather the sole according to
your pattern and affix lacing to the sole thus cut.

Then  they  will be either nails with rivets or  staples
or simply  laced  using  small holes  perforated  in
the sole outside part.

Note: That the feet are not similar so MAKE SURE you cut
the pattern  for  each foot individually and  not  of
the same pattern.

MAKING YOUR OWN MOCCASIN: APACHE STYLE:
They  have many forms and were used traditionally by
Indians of  North  America. Their style would vary from
regions  to tribes but they all had several common points.

The  upper part was made from tanned leather usually
smoked to  increase its resistance and the sole was made
from  soft supple leather.

The  Apache  style  is  made from 3 pieces.  Using  a
heavy leather  that  is  tanned and oiled  (oil  makes
it better waterproof)  and then you cut the pattern on
some kind  of paper  MAKING SURE that each foot has its
own pattern  being different one another.

#Batissez  les  morceaux du patron# and try  it  out
before reporting it on the leather.

The photo pattern is made from the left foot you can
reverse it  to  make it for a right foot but then it is
still better to have a pattern for each foot.

Since  the  leather is a thick one it will then be
necessary before  sewing it to pierce holes using a nail
or  a  punch (#alene#)  or one of those #griffe a trous#
sold in  leather and art craft stores.

The  stitches will be done at the #point de sellier# and
the thread  will be strongly pulled after each stitches
so that it  penetrates well into the leather. The
stitching as  well as being decorative will also be
solid and resistant.

MAKE  SURE that the holes pierced into the sole be
slightly more   spaced  off  that  those  of  the
#empeigne  et   du contrefort#.

This difference permits you to compensate or make up for
the superiority of the perimeter of the sole and gives a
#effet de fronde#.

Now  all you have to do is to make shoe laces as shown
above using  the  same leather as of the moccasins  and
then  you slide them into the slits made into the
#contrefort# of  the shoe.

DRAWING:

1)  Put  your foot on a cardboard, a Kraft paper and  draw
your foot with a pen held vertically then draw the
pattern of  the  sole by adding 3 cm to the heel and to
the tip  and 2.5  cm  to the sides and proceed behold to
do the same  for the next foot.

2) Next you make the pattern of the #empeigne# by  adding
0.5  cm to the largest widest part of the foot (lineAB)
and add 10 cm. to the distance held between your big toe
#et le haut du coup de pied# as seen on line CD.

3) Next  the  height of the #contrefort# of the  moccasin
will  be  of 10 cm. and its length will go around the
ankle and  override it  by 1 cm. on each side of the
#empeigne#. Verify the measures #sur le contour du
patron# of each foot.

4) Using  a nail or #alene# pierce holes at 0.5 cm. from
the  edge  of  the  soles and of the # contreforts#  #et
de l'avant de l'empeigne#.

Space them out at equal distance between them except for
the sole where they will be closely made.

5)   #La couture au point du sellier# that will maintain
the sole to the #empeigne# will be started at the centre
of  the #empeigne#  then will keep on the edges while
the stitching that  will join the #contrefort# to the
sole will be started in the middle of the #contrefort#.

6) To  do  a  stitching #au point du sellier#,  thread  a
needle  at  both  ends  of the thread.  At  the  first
hole #egaliser  les 2 longeurs du fil# and introduce the
needles into the  following holes going in opposite
direction and then keep on going that way till finished.

BABOUCHE:

You  can  also  make Babouche which have the advantage
that they  don't  have any difference between the right
or  left foot.

Cut  4  soles into some thick leather following the size
of your  foot.  Pierce  holes all around and  sew  2
thickness together.

Into  some  leather  #decouper le  dessus  du  pied  et
les contreforts# following the photo. #Couser chaque
dessus  du pied  sur  l'envers starting par la pointe#
into  the  same holes that those made for the soles. All
you have now to  do is to add the heel band.

CLOTHING THE BEAUTY AND THE BEAST!:

Clothing is personnal but good backpacking requires
durable, warm   and  lightweight  not  necessarily  sexy
and  curves showing, as matter of fact the tighter it
is, the less  they are effective. Warm is the factor #1
to take care of.

Altitude  is important, the higher you climb the  colder
it gets.  Yet  desert  gets real cold at night  as
well. Most experience packers use the layer system of
clothing.

WHY FISH NET?:

For  warm weather you want a pair of hiking shorts  but
for additional warmth the fishnet full length pants and
fishnet T-shirts are warmer than thermal underwear are
added to your basic underclothing.

The fishnet act as air trap, on top of which you add a
third layer  of  cotton or better a wool garment. Wool
keeps  warm even  when wet, but not cotton even the best
Levy is  colder than wool pants.

Surprisingly air is an excellent insulator and if you
keep a layer  of  air  trapped  between the  body  and
your outer garments you'll stay much warmer.

Thermal  underwear are heavier and bulkier and not as
warm. Speaking of wool the best and warmest wool is the
rabbit.

COLD TIPS:

Any  chance of cold temperature? You should ALWAYS
carry a down  jacket with you, they are lightweight and
the warmest garment one can find for now.

When  you walk you create heat, but when you stop you should
ALWAYS put on a wind breaker to prevent getting chilled.

Should  you get cold during walking, cover your head
through which you lose 30% of your heat.

MITTENS = BEST:

Mittens for the hands are the only thing to consider,
gloves are for green horns, unless a thin pair inside
the mittens + thumb.

It is wise to use the old system of attaching the
mittens to a  string  sewn to the sleeve of the jacket.
Thus preventing from  loosing them and ready available
when you need  them. Take the nylon wind type of mittens
to cut off the wind.

SEE NOTE ON OVEN MITTENS ARE BEST.

WIND CHILL FACTOR:

Wind  is  very  important factor in keeping warm  and
as a general rule of thumb for every mile or knot of
wind blowing you can subtract on e degree for
temperature. Ex: A 10F with a 10 knot wind = 0 degree
for your body. Bear this in mind.

VEST:

If  you  are  one of the fortunate types that do  not
chill easily,  a down vest instead of a jacket might do.
In  fact even with a down jacket it is often wise to
also carry along a vest.

But  you  MUST  insist that it is long enough to  cover
the kidney area in the back.

A  vest that comes only to the waist all around is not
worth putting  in your bag, look for one that comes to
the crotch. It offers much more protection and is worth
the extra bucks.

SUSPENDERS?:

No, I am not crazy; Belt can give a chaff point when
wearing your  pack  & besides suspenders also allow air
to circulate more  freely since they don't constrict the
trousers at  the waist.

BELT & SUSPENDERS:

Beside  the belt to tie your pants it is often necessary
to have  a big belt to which you can attach beside the
axe and knife,  a  rope,  a  cup, a flashlight, and
your personnal survival kit.

This is why this belt MUST be strong and large. Use the
army web-belt type so that you don't run into troubles.

This  also why a good pair of police suspenders can be
very useful  to  keep  your pants up. It may not  be
the latest fashion but in the bush fashion is the last
thing one should worry about.

WOOL/ COTTON:

If  you  have  a choice between wool and cotton  you
should ALWAYS select the wool garments.

They  retain  heat  even when wet. Of course  you  could
be allergic to wool, then when possible wear the wool
over your cotton undercoating.

HAT:

You MUST ALWAYS have a hat or wool stocking cap that can
be used as head warmer when you go to bed. No 10 gallons
hat!

You can also have the ear muff, because your ears loose
lots of heat and they can get frost bitten fast.
Your hat should have a brim to cut the glare from the
sun & from  the  rain. Besides it protects your hair to
become  a paradise for bugs and twigs of all kinds.

SUNGLASSES:

Often overlooked, yet necessary because of much danger
from snow  or water blindness. They will also protect
from dust. In  fact they are ESSENTIAL in Northern
region against  snow blindness.

RAIN GEAR:

Using  a  poncho  or  a suit or in 2 pieces  is  a  MUST
in camping, one gets ALWAYS surprise by an occasional shower.

If  you  check in motorcycle shop you will find lately that they
carry  a  full body waterproof rain suit that defies rains even
on a bike through a rain storm, a bit costly  yet very solid and
roomy.

But if you hike with it you will find yourself in a sweat in no
time, they are hot and replace a tent in case of emergency,
except for the head.

Easiest  item to forget home, so check your list  and
leave them  in  your  backpack, so you will not forget
them  next time.

CLOTHING:

To  be  well clothed is one of the most important factor
of survival in polar regions. Cold does not leave much
time for experimentation.

Your  clothing and the way to use them can greatly
increase or   diminish  your  chances  of  survival.
Here are  some important consideration concerning the
clothing.

1)   Clothing to tight reduce the air zone protecting your body
     and also bother the blood circulation.

2)   Perspiration  is dangerous because it  diminishes the
insulating capacity of clothing while substituting sweat
to the required air layer.

By  evaporating the sweat cools down the body. So  when
you are  too hot open your clothing, open at the neck
and at the wrist.

3)   Feet  and  hands  require a very particular  attention
since they get cold faster than any other parts of the body.

Cover  your  hands.  To warm them up  put  them  under
your armpit, between your thighs or against your ribs.

Because  the feet perspire a lot it is harder to  keep
them warm.  Your shoes MUST be sufficiently big so that
you  can put  2  pair  of socks so that they stay dry
which  is  the secret of comfort.

Newspaper  helps  greatly  to  do  this  since  they
absorb humidity  and  easy to find. You can also  slide
between  2 pairs of socks dry grass, moss or feathers.

REMEMBER:  ONCE YOUR FEET ARE WARMED UP WE FEEL  WARMER
ALL OVER  NOTHING IS WARMER THAN 2 PAIRS OF SOCKS. (Wool
is best of all.)

4)   REMEMBER  again, in order to avoid freezing  one  MUST
     cover his head, even cover your forehead.

     YOU  LOOSE 1/3 HEAT BY HEAD UNCOVERED.
          SO COVER YOUR ASS & HEAD!

5)   If  you are too hot, open your anorak first, don't
     remove your hat.

6)   If  you  have  an underclothing put  on  your,  #sous
vetement# then put a long sleeve shirt, a wool pant is best, silk
gloves under mittens and your anorak with its head.

MAKE SURE that the underclothing #sous-vetement# is made
of cotton  which will absorb humidity and transmit it to the
woollen shirt without getting wet itself.

Silk  has the same property. So much the better if you
can afford to have socks & gloves made of silk.

You  MUST be completely dry when facing great cold. In
your boots  you should have a felt sole if not then use
newspaper which you fold several times to absorb humidity.

WINTER CLOTHING NOTES:

To  keep  the  body at comfortable temperature,  it  is
not enough  to wrap yourself with all the clothing that
you  can find, you also MUST control the insulation and
humidity.

According to Stefanson the famous Arctic explorer  the
heat factors in sub-zero temperature are the following;

1)  MUST choose  tissues  favouring  aeration,  air-flow,
(wool) (fur) / 2)  MUST wear loose garment / 3)  On
top you wear parka, anorak etc. which are wind and rain
proof or resistant.

4)   AVOID AT ALL COST HUMIDITY CAUSED BY PERSPIRATION.

In  order to do this: Reduce the clothing to a minimum
while walking  and working, then when idle or stop put
them  right back.

LONG JOHNS:    Dick & Harry!

Wool  or cotton net type are your best bet in fall or
winter survival.

They  trap the heat yet allow air flow, you should carry
an extra  pair  while travelling in your pack  they  are
light weight  and  can be added to the one you wear  if
the  case arises at night.

REMEMBER  NOT to wear the same long john at night  than
the one during the day if, if possible and wear clean
socks also at night as well.

Long-Johns  can be in one piece or the new 2 pieces
thermal type which is even better.

What  is  less  good is the cotton wool type #cotton
ouate# which  dries  more badly than the first 2 types
and becomes less warm & full of balls later on.

So don't forget to have an extra pair for better hygiene
and you  can  ALWAYS fall into water thus the 2nd  pair
becomes mighty handy even critical for survival.

You  really need 2 pairs for all seasons & uses,  so  as
to change  everyday and to give a chance to dry well the
first pair from rain or perspiration

PANTS:

After  much  study, it was found that the Alpinist  kind
of pants  are  the best, for they are made of wool,  dry
fast, warm and resistant, far better than jeans which
stay wet and cold.

Just  as it is important to have the right size and kind
of shoes  it  is  equally important to have the right
kind  of pants and no tight fitting that cuts off
circulation and air flow.

GLOVES:

You  MUST ALWAYS when possible have them with you, to
avoid accidents, blisters etc.

The  best all around glove is the woollen glove with
leather underhand  & is warmer with a good grip & better
waterproof than the ordinary glove or woollen mitts &
dries better than the all leather gloves.

DRY WINTER WARM CLOTHING TRICK:

There  is this little trick to keep you dry while
permitting to  walk  without noise which is to wear a
light  rain  gear over  your Long-Johns then you wear
your normal winter  wool clothing over it.

It  is  terribly hot but at least the cold rain  or
melting snow  will not freeze you and the noise stays
insulate under the wool.

EMERGENCY CLOTHING:

When  inadequately or unsuitably clothed for  the
situation you can improvise or supplement protection in
many ways.

Weaving  fibres  will  only  be practical  in  a  long
term situation and skins will not be available at first.

Salvage   towels,  blankets,  tablecloths,  cushions,
seat covers,  curtains, sacking from the wreckage-with a
bit  of initiative  any  kind of fabric can be  used
for garments,bedding or shelter.

Improve  insulation and increase warmth  by  adding
layers. Wear  one sock on top of another and stuff dry
grass or moss between them.

Grass,  paper,  feathers, animal hair etc.  can  be
stuffed between  other  layers  of  clothing.
Newspapers give   an excellent insulation.

WATERPROOFING:

Use plastic bags & sheets to improvise waterproof or cut
off large sections of birch bark.

Discard the outer bark and insert the soft and pliable
inner layer  under the outer clothing. It will turn away
much  of the  rain. Other smooth barks that peel easily
can be  used, but birch is best

In  the  longer term, improve water-repellent  qualities
by rubbing  animal  fat  or  the tallow  from  suet
into your clothing.

Do  not  do  this  in situation of intense cold,  where
the reduction  in insulation would be too great a  loss
& rain rarely a threat.

FOOTWEAR:

NEVER  underestimate the heavy wear and tear of rough
ground on  your feet. Climbing over rock and scree can
soon destroy a pair of smart city shoes. High heels and
sandals will soon break or wear in rough conditions.

Cut  shoe  soles  from rubber tires, make holes  around
the edges for thongs to tie them over wrapped feet, or
to sew on to fabric uppers.

Several layers of wrapping are better than one on the
feet. Tie on with thongs or use a triangular shape.

Fold  one  point back over toes, make slits in front.
Bring other  points from behind heel, through slits and
tie around ankle.

EMERGENCY MOCCASIN:

Moccasins  can be cut from a single piece of leather,
about 8cm  (3in)  bigger all round than the actual  sole
of  your foot.  Thong in and out around the edges and
gather them  in over wrapped feet.

Tie  off  the  gathering thongs and weave another  back
and forth over the foot to make it more secure.

Alternatively,   given   more  time   and   patience,
more traditional  moccasins can be made from a thick
hide sole, side strips and an upper. Measure around your
foot first. GOGGLES:

To  protect  from glare at sea and in snow or desert
cut a strip of material, paper, bark but not metal to
tie over the eyes or over the whole face in cold climates.

Eskimos  often carved goggles from wood. Make  narrow
slits for  the  eyes. Add extra protection by blackening
the  eyes with charcoal to reduce the glare.

NEEDLE AND THREAD:

The Agave plant produces fibres for ropes and mats that are too
rough  for clothing but the end of the leaf is almost ALWAYS  a
hard  point that can be extracted with a fibre attached. It makes
a perfectly threaded needle!

CLOTHING TIPS:

1) Tie  long leaf strips and fibres around a belt or neck band to
hang down as a grass skirt or cape.

2) Cut a head hole in a blanket or carpet & use as a poncho. Tie
at waist or thong sides.

3)Small skins are easily tongued or sewn together. Fur on the
inside  will give greater insulation but  on  an outer garment
the suede side sheds snow better.

REQUIEM FOR A HORSE BLANKET:  (SLEEPING BAG)

Experienced  campers have dealt with elements  of  cold
and dampness before and they know their killing powers
and  how to keep them at bay.

They  paid the price for the so called bargain sleeping
bags and  the  weight they save by not including a
ground cloth which is a most in any camping at any time.

SLEEPING COMFORT IS ESSENTIAL.

A  well made sleeping bag will mean a warmer, more comfy
bed in  which to rest while a poorly made bag can keep
the tired hiker  up all night and even leave him open to
pneumonia  or hypothermia.

25%  of  the body weight being the general use, one  has
to take in account the weight of the sleeping bag & its cost.

Synthetic-fill  bag such as Dac 11, Polargard  or
Fibrefill weighs  more  but  costs  lest than a  down-
fill bag  which lightweight  warm & more expensive, so
the backpacker  MUST find  the prevailing temperature of
where he will go camping and the thickness of its wallet.

Is goose down better than duck down? They both have the
same chill rating but goose down cost more.

The  synthetics  are  less  costly  but  less  effective
as insulation and heavier their advantage if wet they
are easy to  dry  and retain more of their original loft.

A WET  DOWN BAG IS USELESS ON THE TRAIL.

Loft indicates the thickness of the insulating material
that is  packed  in between the inner case and outer
shell of  a bag.

The  method of stitching these 2 shells together is
another indication  of  whether a bag will hold in
warmth or  allow cold air to carry off body heat.

Obviously  the thicker the fill the more cold resistant
the bag but weight is a factor to consider.

A bag filled with 1 1/2 lb of goose down is good down to
0C. whereas 3 1/2 will keep you warm as low as -35C.

But if in humid climate with more temperate temperature
then the  synthetics fill with its reduced cost may be
the right choice.

A  well-designed  winter  bag  will  have  a  double
zipped arrangement  to aid in preventing cold drafts
from getting inside the bag.

A  warm  sleeper stays healthy. Better quality bags  can
be zipped open & closed at both ends giving the tired
man a way to ventilate both his head and his feet.

Is the zipper heavy duty and double pull with an opening
and closing tab both inside and outside? Is  it  nylon
or metal and is there a baffle between it and the sleeper?

Are  the  stress  point  bars tackled  and  the  bag
double stitched where extra seams are needed?

Check  close  for good workmanship. Avoid a bag whose
seams are  sewn through the inner shell. Look for one
instead with baffles between inner and outer layers that
block cold air.

A  separate covering wrapped around the sleeper gives
added comfort  on bitter winter night. Several types are
available or make one yourself.

Besides having this separate covering and its warmth, it
is easier  to  clean than your bag. REMEMBER that
compartmented stitching   provides  better  insulation
than types with stitches sewn through inner & outer layers.

PADDING IS A MUST:

Foam  padding provides thicker insulation than the
Insolite pad but the Pad is easier to pack.

A  PADDING IS A MUST, to cut off the chill from the
ground, if  you  don't have one handy, then make one
from evergreen branches, YOU MUST GET OFF THE GROUND.

You will sleep better at night when it is cold if you
eat a high  energy snack such as a candy bar before
going to bed. The  heat-producing  sugar  will  fuel
your  inner furnace through the night.

REMEMBER that if you are a person suffering easily from
the cold that you should invest in a more insulated bag
to sleep even if it means spending a few more bucks, it
is well worth it.

NEVER  store  a sleeping bag in its stuff sack at  home,
it needs to be aired out and store properly in a dry place.

BACKPACK?:

Is  a  duffel-bag OK? Look goofy you want to be a
backpacker so where is your backpack?

A  skier  without his skis is zip. A good backpack can
make your  day,  a bad one will really make your day,
even  your night a nightmare.

There  are  over  15 major domestic manufacturer  in
Canada alone,  so the first thing you MUST decide is how
much  you want to spend.The best way to judge is how
often will you use it.

Is hip load frame better than the shoulder suspension
types? Some swear by one, others differ.

You are the one to decide, when you try it on you should
try it  fully loaded, or bring something heavy (25% of
your body weight)  to put in the bag so as to decide
what is best  for you.

The  choice of a suitable frame is based on how a given
type will fit a person's body structure general bulk and
muscular type.

Generally  accepted that a tubular-frame pack is better
for long distance travel with a heavier load.

Internal  frames are new and if you require greater
mobility climbing  or  ski  touring, then you should
look for  that model.

When  setting to buy a pack the MOST IMPORTANT
CONSIDERATION = FIT:

Everybody  is different so you have to consider all
factors such as your weight, body structure etc.

Do  the fittings as for shoes, very carefully, what fits
one doesn't necessarily fit the other.

Not  only do you have to select the right size pack but
also MUST  exercise  great care to fit your dimension.
The  more adjustments available on the pack the more
likely it is that the buyer can get a good fit.

Insist on fitting the pack with a load before buying it,
if the  salesman refuses, then go elsewhere. Of course
you try it in the store not on the trail.

Note: The better constructed frame will have all joints
held together with heli-arc or #tige# weld for more
strength.

When  a  pack  fits well and seems to carry well,
carefully inspect it inside & out before buying it.
Check all  seams for workmanship flaws and all grommets
to insure they locked properly.

Put  the  pack  on the floor on its corner and balance
full weight  on  it,  if  it gives apologize and  leave
quickly. Better his lost than yours.

Check  all  adjustments to find out if they will give
under stress. Work all zips to insure problem free
operation.  See if  the pack material has been coated
for WATERPROOFING.  IT IS A MUST.

You don't want soggy food and damp clothes. After buying
it, ask the salesman for repair kit material and glue so
that if something happens on the trail you have the
proper material to fix it in hurry.

The  first place to care for the pack is in packing  it
for the  trail,  sharp object MUST not touch the
fabrics. Wrap those well with clothes etc.

When taking the pack off, DON'T DROP IT, set it down
gently, no matter how much your shoulders ache.

The force of 40lbs coming to a sudden stop from a height
of 2  or  3  feet  can do unbelievable damages to
stitches and zips.

At  night hang the pack from a tree, a hungry bear or
racoon and  do a lot of bad.  At home REMEMBER that a
garage is  no place for the pack.

WHAT TO PACK:   (VCR?)

WE REPEAT THAT 25% OF BODY WEIGHT IS THE TOP NORMAL.

After  that, use a horse or a mule. You have to get  on
the weight  scale  with  your full load on to  see  if
you  are overweight or not, this weight includes the
pack itself, the sleeping bag & the personal gear. (See
survival kit)

If you go in a group, check, not to double up on items
which you  can share or use as group member. Don't
forget to check & recheck your list.

HOW TO PACK:

The  general rule is to put the heavy item on TOP  close
to the body and the light stuff at the bottom.

DON'T  FORGET YOUR SURVIVAL KIT & BOOK SHOULD BE ON YOU
AT ALL TIME.

SURVIVAL KIT:

One  of  the best one I found is the Boony box, but if
not then  you  make  your owns from a rectangular  army
canteen which  doubles  up as canteen and to hold all
the survival item you can check with the list.pix

FANNY PACK:  NOT FUNNY PACK?

Often  people  use a fanny pack to carry on the  hips
their emergency survival gear.

When  using your fanny pack don't strap it too tight, it
is not  like a belt, give it room to breath and to swing
freely at  the  front should you need to do so. If too tight,
you will leave it behind leaving troubles at the front.

Every  survival  kit  MUST include  a  knife,  map, compass
whistle  (around  your neck) your water canteen, flashlight and
extra batteries.

A complete fire starting kit, wooden matches, magnesium
fire starter,  candle, snares wire, hooks aspirin, fishing  line
and  this kit should stay around 3 to 5 lbs since it is like your
forest wallet, on you at all time.

CAMPING STORES HOT TIPS: WHERE & WHOM?

A  hearth-side  conversation back at the  hunting  lodge
is perhaps the best place for the greenhorn to get hot
tips  on what  to  look for and what to avoid and this
book  as  well since we resumed some 55 different books
and authors.

Another  good  starting  place  is  a  camping  store
where salesmen are campers themselves.Selecting  the
right store for the purchase of  backpacking equipment
is also as important as getting the right pack.

One  actually leads to the other. A good store for this
type of  equipment is probably one in which the owner is
present. The   buyer  can  get  immediate  decision  on
returns   or adjustments.

There should be at least 3 of the major brand names
included in   shelf   stock  and  a  good  selection  of
backpacking literature.

A money back guarantee on all but sale-priced
merchandise is another  good indicator as is a good
quantity of merchandise &  accessories. Most important
is the attitude of the  store personnel. (NO phoque-U!)

If the sales clerk tries to push the buyer into a sale
he is not sure of, or is not knowledgeable about the
equipment  or shows little interest in the buyers
camping needs, the  best place  to  shop  is at another store.
Boy scout  stores  are usually very good places to check up.

BACK PACK, FRAMES, CARE AND REPAIRS:

Most frames break down are caused by poor welding or
joining of the frame sections.This  occurs because of
age or undue stress of ex;  dropping your frame from a
high distance onto a hard surface such  as a rock.

So  don't drop your pack down, lower it as if it was a
good wife or rifle. Emergency repair can be done using a
stick of wood  and some nylon line which you should
ALWAYS have  with you.

For  repairs of the bag itself use adhesive tape or the
ripstop  nylon material, even the worst tear can be
mended good with this material.

NEVER apply the tape or nylon material to the outside of
the bag ALWAYS to the inside.Remove your material from
the pack then heat a rock in  your campfire  and using
it as an iron, iron the patch  onto  the bag.

One  of the handiest tools to carry along is a pair of
long needle  nose  pliers as the one use by fishermen
that  have also a wire cutter section for cutting nylon
line or wire.

Beside a boy scout knife or Swiss army knife you MUST
ALWAYS carry a simple sewing kit to mend your pack or
clothing.

This  is  when your extra purchase of patches at your
store becomes  useful  since  the material is  the  same
strength otherwise it tears worse.

Heat  and  direct  sunlight can be quite  harmful  to
nylon material,  so your bag MUST not be left in the sun
for  any long  period  of time, store it in shade and
away from  any heat source.

Many  inexpensive bags will begin to show wear in the
seams after but a short time so by sewing over the
original seams, they  become tighter & stronger and
extend the life  of  any bag.

The most important thing to REMEMBER in pack maintenance
is to check your bag and frame at the end of every trip.

A nylon cord or rope becomes frayed with use simply melt
the fray  with a match will solve the problem. The flame
causes the synthetic material to melt forming a hard
shell over the cord and it stops unravelling.

TRASH CAN BAGS?:

Plan  also  to protect your backpack from rain  even
though they  may be waterproof with 1 or 2 trash can bag
which  you slip over and they take very little space and
can be use for many other uses.

They  are  in  my mind a MUST to bring along in your
s/kit. Take the heavier biggest kind around, they still
take little space and very light for their uses. Leave
them in your pack as well.

COOKING CANTEEN:

Whether  you  use those freeze-dried edibles  that  come
in forms ranging from simple ones in which you just add
boiling water and wait!

Or  too  complex culinary operations that require 2 or
more cooking pots, 3 forest fires and a series of
complex mixing that could give a chemistry major a
nervous breakdown & send the average camp cook weeping
into the bush.

You  will  need cooking pots and pants of some sorts.
There are  many  type, some fitting in your portable
stove others not so convenient

The  Indians used a steel bucket and a tea pot, a steel
mug or two and a couple of steel plates to do everything.

You  may  decide that you want it different then  just
shop around;  but  let us mention you that one of the
best  item found are those army rectangular canteens. (2
into 1)

ARMY CANTEEN ADVANTAGES:

Their  advantage  is that they fit one into  the  other
and their handle collapse saving space. They are
sturdy and you can pack into them all your camping needs.

Such  as:  oxo cubes, sewing kit, fork, spoon, salt, spice,
sugar,  baking  soda, tea, soap, coffee, margarine, matches,
hooks and wires, Al. paper, etc. All into 1 container.

Buy  2 even 3 or 4 units of those, which you can use to fit them
for  many uses, ex; 1 or 2 for cooking,  the 3rd  for survival
kit. and the 4th for f/aid kit. Believe me they are worth finding
them and they are cheap to buy too.

CARRYING GEAR THE SWAG:

Maybe 2 rpt in backpack & or move since its so good and easy to
do also with the Adirondack small block?? The proverbial
Australian means of carrying a heavy load is one  of the best
methods in existence. It is simply made and very easily carried.

It  has the advantage of being extremely well balanced,
2/3 of  the weigh being carried behind the body and
about 1/3 in front.  The  result  is  that the carrier
walks completely upright.

Clothes, tent, bedding and the gear not wanted for the
day's walk are carried in the swag at the back, while
the food and cooking  utensils and day's needs are in
the dilly  bag  in front.

Because  of this the swag is not opened during the  day
but the  dilly bag attached to the front and right at
your hand is immediately accessible.

The  only components for a swag are a swag strap, 2
binding straps & a dilly bag.The  swag strap preferably
of soft leather, should be  about 30  inches  long  and a
couple inches wide;  the  2  binding straps  can be of
any strong material such as rope,  plaited cord etc.

The  dilly bag can be a sugar or flour bag, some 2 feet long and
12  to 15 inches wide. These are the components for  a swag.

The  swag  strap should be soft and if need  arises  can
be easily  woven  or  plaited from strong grass,  vines,
barks strips. A soft leather strap is ideal.

Half the knack of carrying a swag consists in knowing
how to swing it.Lay  the roll, with the dilly bag
extended in front of  you, and  then  put  the  arm
farthest away from the  dilly  bag through the swag
strap and swing the body towards the  swag, so  that
the dilly bag flies up and out. Duck the  opposite
shoulder and catch the swinging dilly bag on it.

The swag strap will then lie over one shoulder and the
dilly bag  over the other, with the swag roll carried at
an  angle across the back.

An  alternative  method of carrying the swag  is  to
use 2 straps one about 42" long & the other about 6 feet
long. Both straps should be about an 1 1/4 inch wide and
of strong material. The roll is made as for the swag, &
the long strap is tied securely about 5" from one end of
the roll.

5  inches from the other end of the roll the other strap
is fastened with the dilly bag held in position by the
strap.

The  swag is lifted to the left shoulder with the dilly
bag in front and the roll at the back, the neck of the
dilly bag hanging over the left shoulder.

The  long  strap is passed on top of the right shoulder
and then  under the armpit and around the back, and
tied to  a loop  at  the bottom corner of the dilly bag.

This type  of swag  prevents the dilly bag from swaying,
and is preferred by some bushmen.

To  roll the swag, lay your ground-sheet or swag cover
flat on  the  ground and then fold your blankets to  a
width  of about 30 inches by 15 to 20.

Spare  clothes are laid lengthways on top, with  your
other gear.  The sides of the ground-sheet are folded in
and  the whole is rolled from the blanket end to the
free side,  into a tight roll.

If a tent is being taken this in turn is rolled in the
tent. The  2 binding straps are laid 6 to 8 inches from
either end that is 18 to 24 inches apart

The 2 binding cords pass through the loops of the swag
strap and are tied tightly about 6 to 8 inches from
either end  of the roll.

The  food  cooking utensils and daily needs are put  in
the dilly  bag, & the neck of this is tied right at the
junction of the binding strap with the swag strap.

Or alternatively a series of cuts in the neck of the bag
can be made & the binding cord passed through theses so
that the bag is tight to the roll.

If  this  is done it is a good idea to make a cut  down
the side of the bag for about 12 inches so that the
contents can be  taken  out  without removing the  bag
itself  from  the binding straps.

THE ADIRONDACK PACK:

This  is an easily improvised method of carrying heavy
loads & it can be made in less than 1/2 hour.

Select  2  light widely splayed hooks, with the arm  of
the hook  18  to  24 inches long and the shank portion
3 or  4 inches in length.

It  is better to used dead wood that is well seasoned.
This is  lighter. A number of short straight sticks are
lashed to the  inside edge of the shanks above the arms,
and 2  straps are woven or plaited.

Then  tied to the lower end of the shank and again about
18 inches  from the lower end. The 2 shanks should be
about  15 inches  apart where the straps are at the
upper end.  It  is carried high on the shoulder, and if
desired a head band can be used to steady the load.

FOOD & COLD:

In the cold you need 2,000 calories to give you enough
heat. Thus  you need food that has a lot of fat. And
don't forget to drink at least 2 litres of water per
day. Dehydration is common in cold. Best drinks are soup
and tea, no alcohol which dehydrates.

ROPE:  NOT POPE. (See rope file)

REMEMBER that a rope is an extremely useful article to
have around at all time.

And  too bad few hunters think of this and forget to tie
it to  their belt, so be smart and get one about 100
feet long in plastic, you won't regret it.

There would be too many different uses to enumerate, we
let your  mind and brain for those who want to use it to
imagine all its usefulness.

FELT CUSHION:

Not found on the market but that you can make yourself,
from felt  3/4  inches  thick by 2 feet square which
you sew  2 leather band and tie it to your belt.

Thus  you  can  wear it at all time without  hindering
your moves and you sit on it for your greatest ease no
matter the weather you are comfy and warm.

It  is  worth the trouble to make one if you plan  on
going often hunting or camping.

GROUND SHEET:

IT IS WORTH IS WEIGHT IN GOLD EVEN IN DIAMOND!

A  plastic ground sheet about 10 X 6 feet is very
useful for all  kind  of  uses,  from rain, wind,  sun
protection  for yourself or for your gears.

Or  as  emergency shelter or as ground sheet which
makes it all in all more than useful rather ESSENTIAL
in survival.

It should be part of your personnal survival kit even
having one  extra  one in the big travelling kit, it
is worth  is weight in gold even in diamond.