Valencia, Granada and Cordoba

VALENCIA, GRANADA AND CORDOBA
Khola Hasan

[The author visited Spain in March 1985 by car with two families. Their travel began in London, crossing into France by a ferry, then to Paris, Lyons and southern France passing through the town of Perpignan near the border with Spain. Her booklet "The Crumbling Minarets of Spain," contains impressions of several cities and their monuments known to be famous since the glorious days of Muslim Spain. The booklet includes several maps and many sketches.]

  »  Introduction
  »  Valencia
  »  Murcia
  »  Granada
  »  Cordoba

Introduction
In 720 C.E. when the Muslims had captured Spain they swept into France via two routes from its southern side. The area we were in was highly mountainous, and here the Muslim armies had marched through the mountain passes under the leadership of Ambasa and Samih bin Malik. The first route took them two thirds of the way to Paris, after which they were defeated [at Tours-Poitiers during the month of Ramadan in 732 CE. This place is known as 'The Pavement of the Martyrs' and in Muslim cronicles as Balaat ash-Shuhada']. The second route resulted in the region of Southern France, including Toulouse, Narbonne and Perpignan, as far up as Lyon, being captured.

The region remained in Muslim hands for a long time. It is to be expected that they left many landmarks behind them when they were driven out of France. Before reaching Perpignan, a tiny French town near the border with Spain, we passed another town, on the outskirts of which stood a castle shaped like a mosque, and this castle seemed to be one of them.

[Muslim control in southern France varied from time to time, as some of the territories were lost, regained, and then lost. This went on until 975 CE. Muslims also controlled parts of northen and southern Italy and Switzerland until 1050 in a manner similar to that in southern France, and these Muslims, natives of Spain and North Africa, were not allied with either Muslim Spain or any other major Muslim rulers. Muslim presence in northern and southern Italy began soon after the control of Sicily in 827. They lost Sicily in 1091 after ruling it for more than 260 years. About this time, other major islands in the Mediterranean were lost (Malta and Corsica in 1090), and Muslim naval superiority in the Mediterranean was challenged. Soon after these losses and with the fall of Toledo in 1083, a concerted campaign against the Muslims began with the first crusade in 1095.]

We learned that after the Moors of [Northern] Spain were defeated by the Christians in the l3th century, the new rulers began a ruthless campaign of rapidly obliterating any traces of Spain's glorious past. Queen Isabella issued decrees for mass conversion of Muslims to Christianity. Those who refused were either killed or forced to leave the country. The Qur'an and Arabic texts were burned, mosques were destroyed or converted into churches, Islamic prayers were forbidden, and anyone suspected of secretly practicing Islam was persecuted. [Quotations from Kamen and Lea].

The lengths to which the despotic Spanish monarchs were prepared to go to eradicate Islam were simply tremendous. The government even set up border stations outside former Muslim strongholds like Granada where any traveler passing through was forced to drink alcohol and eat
pork.

The situation continued on until the early 20th century when the more tolerant Socialists came into power and allowed some religious freedom. It was then that about fifty 'Christian' families suddenly pronounced that they were in fact Muslims. These families were the descendants of the
Moriscos, the Muslims who had been forced to convert to Christianity, and now, after a passage of many generations, they re-established the faith of their ancestors. It was beautiful to think of
these people who were outwardly Christians, but who secretly passed down and kept alive the knowledge that they were Muslims for hundreds of years until they were able to pronounce this publicly. This is a direct and sad contrast to the majority of Muslims today who are publicly Muslims but whose practice and thought is that of the non-believers.

Although the Muslims played a Major role in the history of Spain and made it a center of learning for the world, such facts are completely ignored in the schools. Instead they are brainwashed with the usual story of barbaric Muslims attacking the peaceful Spaniards and giving them the choice between Islam and the sword. The little they are told about Prophet Muhammad (pbuh) and Islam in general is a gross distortion of the facts. [Quotations from Famous Scholars: What they say about Prophet Muhammad (pbuh)].

This was not new to me as I have suffered at the hands of teachers in London, especially those who teach History and Religious Studies. They seem to have a vendetta against the Muslims, refusing point-blank to acknowledge the truth. I remember being taught that the Jewish Golden Age in Spain was due entirely to their own efforts. The Jews were simply indispensable to the
Muslim rulers as without their talents the Muslim civilization would never have flourished!

Although the Spanish are not exactly overflowing with manners they are actually very friendly and hospitable people. The Spaniards are much like the Arabs and this is to be expected after the latter's eight-hundred-year stay in Spain and the intermarriages that thus took place. During our journey we were so struck by the calm and clean nature of the people, especially in the smaller, sleepier towns. In every village we would pass women standing at their doorsteps with brooms or
dusters in their hands, gossiping non-stop (It's amazing how much they talk!). At every corner there would be a knot of old men and if they were not busy staring at us, they would be talking.

When we got hopelessly lost and screamed for help, which was a regular occurrence, obliging passers-by rushed to help. And if it was possible they would actually fetch their cars and escort us to our destination. Although most of the roads had pavements, these seemed to be reserved for the tourists. The natives would stroll leisurely across the road while the car drivers would take quick naps in their cars. The atmosphere was tranquil and lazy, and it was hard to believe that we were still in the real world and not in a scene from Enid Blyton.

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Valencia

In Valencia, the mosques that were not destroyed were the largest ones and were transformed into churches. We went to see a few of these that evening and were saddened into silence. I can remember one of them particularly well. It was a huge stone building in the middle of a small square. Standing in front of its numerous towering minarets we all felt like shrimps. We entered it in the same frame of mind we would enter any mosque in London or elsewhere, so imagine the torture we experienced when, instead of an Imam, we saw a Priest dressed in flamboyant red; instead of the Qur'an, we heard a choir; instead of prayer mats we saw cold benches; instead of the Mihrab we saw the outstretched arms of Jesus on a cross. Although it was late at night, a service was being conducted because it was Easter Friday.

We spent a long time in that square because there were many mosques clustered in that small area. While walking around we met a young Arab. He told us that he came to that area every evening to stand quietly in the dark looking at the remains of a marvelous history. Although the authorities have tried to make these stolen mosques look more like churches, they have not fully succeeded and the buildings remain distinctly Islamic. Because of their rugged exterior and thick unpainted stone walls, there is an air of permanence and solidity in all these buildings, which becomes even more apparent when they are compared with the other buildings around them.

Spain is a land of strange contrasts, the strangest of which is the sight of these ancient, distinctly Islamic castles and mosques standing next to modern flats and office blocks made of thin walls and glass, so delicate that it seems that a strong wind would easily blow them away. It is as if the whole world may change but these historic buildings are determined to stay the same. And time has in fact proved them right. Living amidst such stubborn reminders of their Muslim past it is not surprising that there has been a growing nationalist movement in Andalusia with an aim to asserting an identity closer to their Moorish heritage.

We then walked to the largest mosque that the Moors built. When the Christians first captured it, after encountering brave resistance, they burned alive the Qadi (Judge) of the town as well as his eldest son outside the mosque. The only memorial today to these martyrs is a faded Spanish
inscription on one slab of the pavement at the site of the burning.

One of the minarets of this mosque is exceptionally tall and remains the highest in Valencia to this day. The Christians had immediately placed crosses on all the minarets, but for some reason they left this one alone, and so it still stands, unconquered. They also contributed statues of Jesus and horrific figures of various demons to their "churches." These demons are supposed to represent Satan and were placed there to protect the churches against the Muslims.

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Murcia

As we left Murcia we passed a massive, wooden water-wheel. This was built six hundred years ago by the Moors to water the fields and when the Christians captured the town they realized what a prize they had found and so kept it intact. Today it is still used to water fields for miles and is probably the largest water-wheel in Spain: about eight meters in diameter, and still working as efficiently as if built yesterday. What really annoyed me was that the Information Board nearby only said that it was a Historic Monument, with no details about its date or builders. This applied to all the palaces, bridges, mosques, castles and fortresses that we saw. The jealous Spanish authorities want to keep the world in ignorance about the role of the Muslims in making their country a historian's and tourist's paradise.

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Granada

Granada lies in the valleys overshadowed by the Sierra Nevada mountain range. The town used to contain many ethnic minorities which used to live in their own certain quarters. The Muslim quarter, famous for its architecture, was the area of Al Baicin and like the rest of Granada it was situated on the hills. The town has now expanded and three-quarters of the modern Granada has spilled down the hills into the valley below.

Granada fell to the combined forces of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella who had married in order to unify their kingdoms, and so strengthen their forces, in November 1491. The couple entered the Alhambra in full glory and crosses were placed on the highest minaret of this fortified palace from which the Muslims had resisted. Abu Abdullah (Boabdil), the last king of Granada, and his family were exiled to the hills but they later moved to Morocco. As he looked at the Alhambra for the last time, tears came into his eyes. At this his aged mother 'Aisha said scornfully: "Abu Abdullah! Cry like a woman for a kingdom you could not defend as a man."

After their Dark Ages, the Muslims have returned to Al Baicin. The importance of this area can be judged from the fact that out of the 250 indigenous Muslim families that live in the whole of Spain, two hundred are centered in Al Baicin. All these conversions into Islam have been fairly
recent. Funds collected by these Muslims have been used to buy a spacious house in the area and convert it into a beautiful place of worship as well as a haven for travelers. It also has a beautiful garden which contains trees laden with fruits.

The three resident men were all converts, one of whom was a young German called Talib who had embraced Islam in England and then returned to Germany where he converted his parents to Islam. The purpose of these men living in the mosque is to obtain a full-time Islamic education. At every prayer time, one of them stands outside the main door and says the Adhan at the top of his voice.

There is a convent nearby whose inmates seem to be singularly lacking in Christian spirit. These nuns would give the Muslims the dirtiest looks possible. I can only hope that the faithful will answer this call and that one day the Adhan will be heard even more loudly from minarets throughout Spain - Insha'Allah.

At noon we left with Talib, who acted as a guide and interpreter, to see the Alhambra. This magnificent Moorish palace was built by a series of successive kings and is the name usually associated with Muslim Spain. It is situated right at the very top of the hill with the majestic
snow-capped Sierras behind it and commanding a picturesque bird's eye view of Granada which lies in the valley below.

After five hours of walking continuously through its confusing maze of square halls, courtyards, balconies, porticoes and lush gardens, we were still not able to see every part of this architectural miracle. I think it is simply impossible to do justice to the beauty and grandeur of the palace. Each room was different and each was an artistic achievement in itself. The walls, ceilings and pillars were covered with geometrical patterns, verses from the Qur'an, prayers for the royal family, names of the Kings, and the ever-recurring "wala ghaliba illa'Allah" (And there is no victor
except Allah). This phrase seems to have been the trademark of the Muslims as it was nearly on everything they left behind.

The patterns were intricate and superb with a glorious rainbow of colors. Many of the designs had been filled in with gold-leaf and, although not of much material value, they had still been scraped off by tourists. Even the ceiling of each room had its own special design, the most famous of which gives the impression of being studded with stalactites. Our long gazes of admiration at these had, unfortunately, adverse effects on our necks.

As most of the building was made of stone and marble it was deliciously cool despite the blazing sun outside. Among other things the basement also contained the palace baths. A Spanish guide pointed out that leading to these were three pipes: one brought hot water that was heated in massive storage tanks, the second brought cold water and the third brought scented water with which the royal family perfumed themselves.

The gardens were extensive and picturesque, their tall hedges carefully pruned to the last leaf by the numerous gardeners. Cool fountains, flowers, fruit trees and even ponds filed this labyrinth of green. The spurting water of these fountains (which were present in all shapes and sizes) enhanced
the blending of natural beauty with arabic architecture. Probably the most famous of these is in the Court of Lions: a central fountain supported by twelve carved lions, each squirting water, and flanked by one hundred and twenty-four marble columns. Others consisted of whole avenues of
smaller founts, the spurting water of which made enchanting symmetrical patterns when viewed from above. We could only marvel at the ingenuity of the numerous architects who were involved.

The different levels of the gardens and the rising towers could be reached by a series of stairs and after climbing an extremely dangerous flight of rickety steps we were able to sweep our eyes over most of the palace. At one end of the Alhambra we were intrigued by the sight of an exceedingly ugly and disjointed circular building. We were wondering what on earth had possessed the Muslim architects to build such a blot on the landscape when we learned that this was actually a palace built by the Christian King Charles V as a memorial to his great rule.

We then performed the prayer on the tower and I hope that our actions, which surprised the tourists around us, will once again be a common sight in Spain. We then left the Alhambra with its halls, towers and courts still resounding with the eternal truth, "And there is no Victor except
Allah."

"Between the sun's rising and setting
Myriad love songs were sung.
And those who were mortal departed,
And He who is Eternal lives on."
Ibn Zamarak
The Poet of the Alhambra

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Cordoba

Early the next morning we began our three hour journey to Cordoba. On the way we passed through many small towns, the names of most of which were preceded by the letters "Al" and so were a constant reminder of their Arabic origin. Cordoba deserves its title of the "Bride of the Cities," and it has also been described as the jewel of the tenth century world. Its showpiece is a
magnificent mosque, the construction of which began in 785 C.E., and which is the most famous building of Spain after the Alhambra.

Cordoba fell to the Christians in 1236, two hundred fifty six years before Granada was captured. Two  years later, the priests of the city asked permission from their king to build a cathedral. Not understanding their demands the King agreed, and the priests proceeded to have the center part of the mosque destroyed so that a choir, high altar and transept, main characteristics of a Christian cathedrals, could be built in its place. The King saw this when it was too late and although a Christian himself, he was furious as he had wanted to preserve the mosque in its original splendor.
He told them sadly, "The thing you have built here could have been built anywhere. But the thing you have destroyed can never be replaced.

The mosque has a veritable forest of marble, granite and Jasper pillars (eight hundred and fifty remain of the original thousand). Arches in stripes of red and white stone connect these pillars and create a magnificent effect like that of canopies. The simple interior has now been filled with chapels, religious paintings, benches and statues. A high altar stands in front of an image of Christ with a row of candles perpetually kept burning.

If there was any consolation it was that the Mihrab had been left untouched. Metal railings had been erected to stop it being touched or closely approached. It rested on a slab of exquisitely carved marble and was supported by pillars covered in mosaic. The arch above it was beautifully
ornamented with inscriptions from the Qur'an. This was the only part of the entire building which was as serene and peaceful as a place of worship deserves to be, free from distracting and morbid images of people being crucified and blood flowing everywhere. The rest of the mosque has just
been completely desecrated.

I was beginning to feel very bitter and sad as we stood quietly opposite the Mihrab, and suddenly my father gave the Adhan as loudly as he could. It must have been centuries since the mosque resounded with the call to prayer and I could not contain my tears any longer. We prayed on the
dusty floor for a lost past, a lost glory and a lost people. Why can't the Muslims retain anything worthwhile, I wonder? Their lands are being snatched away, their dignity and pride have been destroyed, their faith is continually mocked.

The fifty or so tourists around us had frozen still when they heard the Adhan, and throughout our prayers they stood in wondering silence, while their numbers steadily grew. Although they were silent their cameras certainly were not and flashed continuously while we prayed. The authorities
would not have allowed us in if they had known our intentions; some time before our visit a group of Muslim tourists from the U.K. had been refused entry into the mosque until they had given written guarantees that they would not pray inside. However, they did not hear or disturb us and so we were able to pray in peace. [More on Cordoba...].

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Allah:  Allah is the proper name in Arabic for The One and Only God, The Creator and Sustainer of the universe. It is used by the Arab Christians and Jews for the God (Eloh-im in Hebrew). The word Allah does not have a plural or gender. Allah does not have any associate or partner, and He does not beget nor was He begotten. SWT is an abbreviation of Arabic words that mean 'Glory Be To Him.'
s or pbuh:  Peace Be Upon Him.  This expression is used for all Prophets of Allah.

Copyright © 1991 Abul Qasim Publishing House (AQPH).  All Rights Reserved
Copyright © 1997 Abridged, Edited and Web version by Dr. A. Zahoor.
Posted by the permission of AQPH.

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Muslims in the Americas Before Columbus
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